As Asian American Pacific Islander Heritage Month wraps up, The Food Guy Steve Dolinsky checks in with a cuisine he just can’t get enough of: Korean.
As many NBC Chicago viewers have heard, this week’s edition marks his final report for us here at the station as he exits a TV food career of some 30 years.
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WATCH HEREMy friend Ed Kim always jokes I was probably Korean in another life. Or maybe because I grew up kosher, in St. Cloud, Minnesota, where the most exotic dish was tuna casserole, but Korean food has always been endlessly fascinating to me: the fermented vegetables, the sweet-spicy tang of gochujang and the sometimes fiery broths containing soft tofu. And yes, the barbecue.
For my final report here on NBC Chicago, I’d like to introduce you to the Lee family, making the dishes their mothers and grandmothers made, and serving them in a thoroughly modern setting in a part of West Town that used to be a hundred percent Italian.
The food at Mister Tiger – on a busy corner in West Town that’s been home to several restaurants over the years – is prepared with great care. They’re recipes Min Lee has been writing down the last year or so, after lots of tastings with her mom.
“I grew up with my grandma, because both of my parents were working very hard after they moved to the States. And back then I didn’t realize, but after I became a mom myself, I realized how much love goes into making food for your family,” said Min Lee, the Chef-Owner. “Korean food is not just food that fills my tummy, but it’s an expression of love so I wanted to share that with the city.”
And we are all the better for it. Every table gets a few small dishes of banchan, or snacks, like kimchi, fish cakes, potato salad and cucumbers. They’ll replenish as needed. Galbi Jjim is a celebratory dish: slow-cooked beef short ribs and carefully carved root vegetables served piping hot.
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“It just takes a lot of effort. You braise it for a really long time and you actually hand carve every single potato and carrot,” she said.
Another bowl served in a bubbling clay pot is Soondubu, a soft tofu stew with ladles of anchovy broth, adding not-so-subtle bursts of umami. Then there’s Bibimbop – a simple bowl of cooked vegetables and beef – but it’s elevated ever-so-slightly, since Lee uses plum extract rather than sugar in the sauce, lending a natural sweetness. Ssam, or lettuce wraps, are made extra delicious with the addition of barbecued pork.
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SIGN UP “You put a little bit of rice, a little meat, a little pickle, ssamjang sauce and just wrap it in a little bite-size – well I made mine a little too big, but you have to eat it in one bite!” said Lee.
Every cocktail has a backstory, and the few I’ve had have all been memorable.
“That’s all credit to my little brother Charlie, he’s spent a lot of time creating all of the recipes,” she said.
Lee says the importance of family, and the memories she and her staff are creating, have kept them going these first few months, as they continue to find their footing.
“One time I had a guest who came over here and she grabbed my hand, she said ‘thanks for doing this. Because of you I got to have dinner with my daughter and you’re bringing my family together so it’s really rewarding,” said Lee.
A note here for diners: the restaurant is dinner-only, and reservations are a must. More info on the restaurant’s website.
